Photography by Jane Kortright
When I lived in Florence, Italy, there was a popular pizza place called Gusta Pizza. Everyone knew it was the best pizza around and even a simple margherita there was better than anything else in town.
When I met Gil Rowland, he cited — unaware of my story — that the inspiration for his pizza came from honeymooning with his wife in Italy. “I can’t stand eating at the same place twice when I’m traveling, anywhere except this place called Gusta Pizza in Florence.” I instantly knew we were off on the right foot and that the standard for anything coming out of the wood-burning oven on the Southern Fired Foods truck would be top-tier.
With their huge, handmade brick oven that burns firewood at 1000 F, every pie is perfectly cooked right in the food truck. Rowland’s degree in geology and previous background in the mining industry gave him the ability to spend two and a half weeks working nonstop to create the custom oven.
His appreciation for Italian fare set such a high standard that it would influence his purchase of ingredients. Everything from the semolina flour, that keeps the dough from sticking to the metal turner, to the San Marzano tomatoes in the sauce are imported from Italy. “The water is not Italian,” he jokes. “But if I could get it, I would.”
Rowland’s son, Ben, also a vital part of the team, helps make every crust by hand. “We make the dough balls, then they sit for about 24 hours to give it character … Ben is a crust master,” says his dad, proudly. “Truly he is!”
The smooth operation inside the truck requires a third hand. Typically filling that role is Holland Dirlam, Ipek Carstens, or Gil’s wife, Tracey. Ben stays ahead of the game on crusts so that once an order has been taken, toppings can be added and then handed off to the older Rowland who finishes the pies in the piping hot oven, rotating them to create an ideal crust.
Though a customer can certainly create any preference for toppings, most people order directly from the curated menu of classics and creative options. My personal favorite, The Boss (savory, sweet and spicy), is made with bacon, Italian sausage and ChantillyLace Hot Honey!
For a list of rotating locations, visit southernfiredfoods.com under the Stalk Us tab. If you’re interested in eating the best Italian pizza this side of the pond, look for Southern Fired Foods at Fort Eisenhower, local stops around town and big events like Thunder Over Evans and the Foodee Festival.
Seen in the May 2024 issue of Augusta magazine
