Photography by Jane Kortright
The concept of grabbing a drink with friends at the end of the workday is nothing new. There’s a reason that Jimmy Buffett’s hit song “It’s 5 O’Clock Somewhere” resonates both with those who work a 9 to 5 schedule and those who don’t.
Bodega Ultima owner Cary Goldsmith saw a need years ago to create a space for those whose “5 O’Clock” was at the end of working a third shift or a long night of call at the hospital.
Goldsmith fondly recalls part of his inspiration coming from a moment in college, studying at a coffee shop in Athens after a late night. “Someone walks up next to me and orders a PBR [Pabst Blue Ribbon] and a shot of Jäger at 8 a.m. I looked at the barista and then gave him a look and she said, ‘He just got off an 8-hour shift at the diner across the street. That’s his shift beer.’”
Despite having grown up in the restaurant industry in Augusta, this was a new perspective for Goldsmith on an underserved demographic. So he coupled his newfound knowledge with his ongoing experience, and bet everything on Bodega Ultima.
Open at 7 a.m. on weekdays and 8 a.m. on weekends, the cafe offers a wide selection of coffee, beer and cocktails, but is especially known for its wine. Bodega has a retail license in addition to on-premises serving, so customers can enjoy a glass or buy a bottle to take home.
“People associate masculinity and femininity with wine, and I think that’s so silly,” says Goldsmith. “Good is good and when it’s hot outside I’m more than happy to drink a glass of white wine rather than a heavy cabernet.” He is passionate about demystifying wine for people — to eliminate its pretension and make it accessible. “I’m just excited to get a text that says, ‘Hey I want to learn more about wine.’ Because it’s something that I really enjoy, and I want to share that.”
Goldsmith’s passion for wine stems from his background in the industry. “I grew up in a restaurant, so wine was always around. We’d taste wines at dinner with my parents, smell it and then eventually learned to open wine and play waiter at dinner parties with my parents. When I got older and opened Bodega, I was encouraged to take the first-level sommelier test. Now it’s a great excuse to travel. The world of wine is full of a lot of really incredible people.”
Those same people now include the customers who come into Bodega Ultima daily, sometimes for coffee or breakfast, but so often for a drink with friends after a long night of work. “We try to be a safe space for everyone,” he says. “There are days when I walk in and see the most eclectic group of people from all walks of life and all parts of the city and those are the days where it’s hard not to smile and think, ‘Man, this has become its own thing’ and it’s a really a fulfilling thing to see and experience.”
In addition to being open every day of the week, Bodega Ultima has a wine club and hosts tastings and other events during the year, making it easier for locals to try options from smaller, family-owned wineries.
To find out more, subscribe to the email list at bodegaultima.com.
Seen in the June/July 2024 issue of Augusta magazine
